The Dreaded Tehuantepec

So now we had to face Tehuantepec. The Tehuantepec can be difficult to predict. If a gale is predicted at 35 knots, it is very possible you could experience winds in excess of 45 knots in the middle of Tehuantepec. The most dangerous part of a Tehuantepec blow is the extremely high seas – they can build rapidly to 10 – 15 feet at 5 to 6 seconds.
Tehuantepec

Most people tell you to‘keep one foot on land’ so that if it starts to blow, you will have to cross a shorter distance of the gale force winds. Also, the water is calmer closer to shore. In order to do that, you have to watch your depth finder and your radar. There are 2 estuaries that cause shoals so you have to watch for those and go out to miss them. As you can imagine this was not a relaxed voyage.Tehuantepec Estuary

We had watched for a good weather window and we got winds from the WSW, which was great for sailing almost the whole way. The boat traffic in Salina Cruz took a lot of concentration and it was on my watch.

There were huge freighters anchored all over the place. That was a bit interesting because I had to maneuver around them with radar - which I have come to trust. Then yesterday we got two visitors in the afternoon. First a couple of fisherman came and asked for some drinking water and traded us a yucky fish. We filleted it sort of – and fried it, and tasted it, then pitched it. Oh well, at least we didn’t pay much for it – only a bottle of water. I would have given it to them for nothing anyways. Then some time later about sundown a navy boat approached us and haled us on the radio. Burt told him he doesn’t speak Spanish. (at least not good enough to answer questions that if you said the wrong thing they could take your boat. They put a guy on the radio that speaks some English. Burt said, ‘hi this is the sailboat – who am I talking to.’ The guy on the radio said ‘this is ahhhhh navy boat’. Everyone just laughed. They asked how many people were on board, so I stuck my head out and waved when Burt said there were 2 of us. They waved and said thank you.

The next night we started running into lightning. That was scary! I love to watch lighting but not when we have two masts sticking 55 feet up into the air. Of course most of the lightening was on my watch. At least it kept me awake. Burt really needed the sleep last night. He usually takes a much longer watch than I do, but last night he was wiped out. So I got to watch the lightening and try to sail around it. About 3 o’clock in the morning Burt took the helm. It wasn’t too long after I had just fallen asleep, Burt heard the roar of the winds from the shore. The dreaded Tehuantepec. We quick took down the sails and headed in as close to shore as we could safely go.