"Crossing the Beast...The Gulf of Tehuantepec."

Crossing the Beast-The Gulf of Tehuantepec
Captains Log- Madwenowe: April 5, 2008
Anchor Up @: 11:20 A.M.
Departing: Huatulco, Mexico, Marina Chahue
Destination: Bahia del Sol, El Salvador –

Huatulco Marina Departing Marina Chahue at 11:20 am. heading into the ‘Belly of the Beast’ the Gulf of Tehuantepec was not a passage I was looking forward to. After much research and chat with sailors having made this passage you can understand my concerns. We spent 3 weeks in Huatulco talking with cruisers coming and going. Those departing were anxious. Those who had just completed the crossing whether experienced or not were very, very, relieved to have it over with. Such was the case with John on Voyager, a 46’ Beneteau. (The reason I remember his boat name was because of V-GER, in one of the Star Trek movies. The one where the mysterious VGER was overpowering the universe, but as it turns out it was the space satellite Voyager the U.S. sent up back in the early days. Well it kept on going and the computers on board took control and decided to rule the universe. Remember that one?)

Well, Captain John being a well-seasoned sailor had arrived in Huatulco 2 weeks earlier. He had the latest in nav-gear, weather Fax, SSB, you name it. He had received the most recent of weather conditions and all was a go for a good crossing. He decided to sail straight across from El Salvador. His first 3 days out were fine…but on day 4 winds changed from south to north and he got caught in the “Belly of the Beast”. John described it as “The worst conditions I have ever experienced.. Ever!” He battled 40 to 60 mph winds and seas beyond description for 6 days until the winds abated finally allowing him to arrive in Huatulco. (Did I mention that he was retired airline pilot and solo cruiser. For some reason all the retired airline pilots we meet solo as opposed the retired naval officers like another Captain John we met in Barra de Navida. John was a retired Nuclear Submarine captain. His catamaran was ship shape. His wife was first mate. My first impression of John was that he had a no nonsense look about him. He reminded me of Shawn Connery in “Hunt for Red October” with the well groom beard to match. Well, after being invited to his boat for snacks and such, view points changed. John and his wife Lela were very nice down to earth relaxed people.)

Before casting off, a sailor takes all the necessary precautions. Checking, double checking gear, engine, weather conditions. Still anxiety of the unknown looms. It is only after the sails are up and settled in to the rhythm of sailing that one starts to relax, but always alert to deal with issues that arise.

In the case of a Tehuantepec crossing, I observed 3 apparent approaches or stress levels in preparing for the crossing. There is the “Going to the Dentist” approach, the “Will Be Under Going a Serious Operation approach and the “Getting Ready for the Big Fight” approach.

The “Going to the Dentist” approach is when the sailor arrives at the marina, gets about his business of re-fueling, re-stocking the galley, quick weather check and then, “Lets’ get this over with.” Just in and out. The “Will Be Under going A Serious Operation” approach is little different. The sailor arrives at the marina, takes a couple of days to examine the pros and cons then asks, “Well doc, what are my chances of making it?” The 3rd: “Getting Ready For the Big Fight” reminds me of a boxer in training for the “Big Fight”. The one that will determine his entire future. Before the fight he dances around, skips rope, does some shadow boxing, jerks and twists his head around from side to side to stay loose. Then when he enters the ring, stares his opponent down squarely in the eyes just to convince himself that he is the one to be feared, then goes back to his corner and waits for the bell.

Looking back, I fell into the 3rd category. Thus, during our stay in Huatulco the chat among the cruisers’ was, “What’s your strategy for Tehuantepec?” Some responded, “I’m going to keep “one foot on the ground”. (They have a saying, “Unless you can’t hear the dogs bark you are to far off shore.”) “Not me, I’m heading straight across.” would be another response. “I’m going to do a 16 degree.” Still others, “I’m going to wait and see, then go for it!”

Every since we decided to sail to the Panama Canal and beyond I had dreaded this leg of the voyage. It was like the toothache, under going a serious operation and…getting ready for the ‘Big Fight’ all in one. I could do nothing about it until the time arrived. I had seriously considered trucking Madwenowe our 42’ wooden Ed Monk Sr. ketch across country but the expense was way beyond our means. There was no getting around TePec, unless of course you sail the three to four hundred miles out to sea and then around the danger zone there is no other alternative.

The Gulf of Tehuantepec is a large bay on the Pacific side of the great Isthmus of Mexico Gulf of Tehuantepecthat extends from Sacraficios on the west to Puerto Madero on the east. A distance of about 260 miles. When high pressure develops over Texas it creates a north wind in the Gulf of Mexico that funnels through Bahia de Campeche that blows south over the low lands of the isthmus into the Gulf of Tehuantepec with an average wind speed of 30-40 mph year round. These winds can and do reach hurricane force in a matter of hours. And if one is caught off guard you could be forced to ride it out perhaps for days being blown hundreds of miles out to sea and that would probably be the best case scenario as was the case with Captain John.

Thus, with these factors in mind: a weather window prediction for a safe crossing, winds out of the S/SW from 6 to 18 mph lasting about 4-5 days and “One foot on the ground” as the plan, we left the safe confines of the marina.

But the deciding factor was the knowledge that hundreds and hundreds of cruisers experienced and not so experienced make this passage year after year with virtually no problems….As long as you follow the recommended advice! “Keep one foot on the ground” or wait for that right window. Your chances for a safe crossing are greatly increased.

Our destination for this leg of the cruise would be Bahia Del Sol, El Salvador @ 13 18.134N / 88 53.482W. A distance of approximately 500 nautical miles south east with way points set for Salina Crux a 65 miles stretch with the intension of passing thru late evening to avoid shipping traffic noted for this area, and Puerto Madero @ 14 32.131N / 92 23.740W. Puerto Madero would be an optional stop over if necessary and the half way mark at about 195 SE miles of Salina Cruz.

Once out of the marina we set the jib and main with winds out of the S/SW at about 10 mph in 2-foot seas. With these winds we averaged 3.5 to 4.5 knots and sailed under these conditions until about 5 o’clock in the evening. Then winds died out. At that point we dropped sails and powered up the engine and motor at 5 knots. Our location still being on the west side of the Gulf heading on a northeasterly course about 3-5 miles off shore. While passing thru Salina Cruz at about 2 am the first evening the channel and shipping lanes had several large tankers on anchor. This being Debi’s watch she was able to maneuver thru and past all the traffic with the use of radar with no problems.

It is in this area the course turns SE with a heading to Puerto Madero at about 125 – 129 degrees. By this time weather conditions had changed from the beautiful sunny days we had been experiencing to cloudy and rain with thunder and lighting storms coming up from the south. It is also the area where the need of getting the “one-foot on the ground” arises. Once past Salina Cruz we are well within “the belly of the beast”. The landscape changes drastically. The mountains range of the Sierra Madres comes to an abrupt end and it’s at this point the terrain flattens to sea level for miles and miles. There is absolutely nothing on shore to shelter from the wind. “One foot on the ground” involves staying off shore just outside the high surf that is deafening as it swells and crashes over onto the beach. TePec Sunrise It also involves constantly watching your depth finder staying in about 30 feet of water and monitoring your radar to keep track of distance from shore. It was getting daybreak at this point and visibility was increasing. Then winds began to increase as predicted from S/SW at about 12 mph. Once again I raised sails. It was a good move. We caught a great breeze on the beam and sailed this stretch for nearly 14 hours. It was a fantastic sail covering approximately 50 miles in 2 – 3 foot seas. We stayed close enough to shore where although I couldn’t hear the dogs bark, I did smell the fish and tortillas cooking on the open fires.

We were now entering our second evening of the crossing. Once the sun had set the winds again died off. The engine was started and we motor sailed thru the night. When condition are right, wind, current etc.. I will leave the sails up and run the engine at a lower rpm to maintain a steady speed. There was sufficient breeze to keep the jib and main filled to prevent flapping and to give the extra push needed to average about 4.5 to 5 knots @ 1800 rpm.

These conditions remained thru the morning sunrise and thru most of the day until about mid-afternoon. The wind came up once again from the S/SW and we were able to sail until sundown. The weather was “mucho calor” about 95 degrees.. Sailing for the past 50 hrs under these conditions is very exhausting. Oh! Did I mention that our autopilot went south the very first day out? (Back in January crossing the Sea of Cortez.) Since then it has been hands on sailings. In all honesty it was not the weather conditions that made it exhausting. Up to this point we were having a very uneventful crossing which is how I preferred it. We had sailed in much worse conditions previously. (Crossing the Baja to the mainland of Mexico comes to mind.) It was the fact that we were in the Gulf of Tehuantepec that made this a tense situation. Knowing the wind could shift from south to north at any moment without notice wears a person down mentally. When this happens there is no need to lick your finger and hold it up to the wind. There is no guesswork involved here. Well, we motored sailed through night 2 into day three with variable winds from the S/SW. Late in the afternoon winds increased to about 10-15 mph. No need to use the engine we shut it down and once again settled into a beautiful evening sail. Feeling confident that “we had beat the beast” and that we were past the danger zone (I thought) we started moving off shore to a distance of 6-8 miles. (Incidentally, there are 2 reefs in this passage that make it necessary to change course, head out to sea 4-6 miles, go around and then turn back into the lee. We had no problem navigating this change. It was only after rounding the second reef that we decide to stay further out.)

Debi and I had just changed watches and she went below to rest. Then it happened! During my watch approximately 3 am on the third night out and within a matter of minutes the winds died completely and the sea became very flat. Responding to the subtle change in wind the sails flopped from port to starboard…. Not Good! I looked up at the wind vain and it was pointing directly north. Not Good At All! It was during a new moon phase so things are very dark, but it is amazing when night sailing how the stars illuminate the water enough for one to see clearly.

Way off in the distance I heard a strange deafening sound. (It was exactly like the growling sound effects you hear in the movies. You know the ones where they add effects to the wind to make it sound like a monster or some other creature is about to devour someone. Like in “Twister” the movie with the excellent dialog.... “Run Bill run! Watch out Joe, Run… Run Bill, watch out!) Well… what I heard and saw wasn’t ‘just my magination’. What I heard was a rumbling sound like an earthquake off in the distance (while in San Carlos, Sonora, Mexico this is what a 6.2 sounded like late one evening coming in from the San Andrea’s Fault) combined with the sound of a runaway freight train heading my way and all without the help of Hollywood. Along with the rumbles, the color the ocean changed from that beautiful shinny platinum look to a very deep, deep black. (I have often wondered how various Soap Companies can claim their product can get things “Whiter Than White!” and “Brighter Than Bright!”). Well, it must be true because what I saw was “Blacker Than Black!”…. Not Good!.... Not Good At All!

I yelled “Debi, get up here quick! I need your help! The wind has changed! Take the helm. Start the engine point into the wind! I’ll get the sails down!” Like a loyal mate and sailor that she is, she responded instantly. I lit the deck and spreader lights and ran forward and lowered sails as fast as possible. (Side Note: When sailing at night with only one on watch we tether ourselves in the cockpit. When I have to go forward I always have Debi come topside as a safety measure. If conditions are to ruff I will go below and enter through the V-birth hatch, then secure myself to a cleat.) I had difficultly securing the main because by now the wind was howling 20 mph plus and the black seas were upon us. I again took the helm. We were about 8 miles off shore and at full throttle. I could only make 5.8 knots max, with the wind on the point, heading straight for the lee of shore. It would take well over an hour to get into safer waters. Would I make it? In the mean time Debi went back to sleep. I think she was too tired to fully realize what was going on. This all happened in about a 3 minute time period.

While watching the radar it seemed like it took forever to get “one foot back on the ground”. When I got within ¾ to 1 mile in the lee I turned back on course. At this point the winds were now only about 20 mph and the seas now only choppy, but still very dark and loud. With the wind howling, noise of the engine at full throttle and limited visibility in the middle of the night made this for a very taxing situation and the most intense moment thus far in my sailing experience. And Debi, she slept through it all.

I stayed this course and by daylight we were now out of the clutches of Tehuantepec. Puerto Madero Although wanting to continue on, exhaustion won out so, I made the decision to head for Puerto Madero to regroup. We made port around 9:30 am. April 8th, 2008.

Had the conditions worsened that night? I did stick around to find out. I later learned that we experience the beginning of a gale that fizzled. Fizzle or no fizzle, after 72 hours of Tehuantepec I was frazzled.

The thought of crossing Tehuantepec creates anxiously in a sailor that is haunting. But it’s an experience that we log into memory never to forget as one of the most challenging ever. Also, upon making this passage we will use the experience of a Tehuantepec crossing as a bench mark in measuring our qualities as a sailor.

Lessons learned:

Take no chances. “Keep One Foot On the Ground”. There is reason why the Gulf of Tehuantepec creates fear! Regardless of how well prepared one maybe Tehuantepec can and will live up to its reputation and turn beastly without notice. We were very fortunate that the “Beast” was aroused only momentarily. We had what would be classified as a safe crossing and did not get caught in its’ clutches only to be devoured and for that I am grateful. Would I do it again? “NO SE”

Currently in Bahia del Sol, El Salvador. Thanks for coming to webtiller.com .

BSMcK.

 

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